I like San Miguel de Allende. It's one of the prettiest towns in central Mexico, and if there isn't all that much to do there, it is one of the nicest places I know to do nothing. Those people -- you know who you are -- who bitch about the retired gringos seem cranky and petulant to me. Still, when I saw this gentleman roaming the streets on horseback there on a recent afternoon, gussied up as the Mexican revolutionary hero Jose María Morelos, I had a sinking feeling. It was as if I were walking around in the Mexican pavilion of Disneyland, or some kind of a welcome-to-Mexico theme park. When I stopped to take his picture, I didn't think to ask him if it was a year-round gig, or if he was marching around preparatory to the Independence Day celebrations on September 15. ¡Viva!