The whole tooth and nothing but the tooth

A while back I realized it had been about two years since I had last been to the dentist. So I went to one close to my apartment. He grabbed the metal stick with the little circular mirror on the end and told me to open wide.

After a cursory inspection he told me I had seventeen cavities. He said that he couldn't fill all of them that afternoon, but he could do three or four of them at at a time over a series of appointments. He would charge me a certain amount of money for each filling.

I was nonplused. Admittedly I had let too much time go by since my last visit to the dentist. And although I flossed most nights before going to bed, I may have missed a night here and there. But seventeen cavities?

If he had said three cavities, or five cavities, or maybe even seven cavities, I would have probably said, however glumly, "Okay, go to work." But seventeen? That's more than half my teeth. I asked him to give me a cleaning and that I would call him back after thinking about when to begin getting the cavities filled.

So I went to another dentist. I didn't say anything to her about the one I had just visited. All I told her was that I had let a couple of years go by since the last time. She took a look. "Your teeth are very clean," she said. This was no surprise, as the other dentist had just scrubbed them. She cleaned them again anyway. "By the way, doctor," I asked. "Do I have any cavities?" She took a good look. "No," she said.

"Are you sure?" I asked. "Could you take another look?" She took a good long gander inside my mouth. "It's been a long time since I last saw a dentist. You don't see anything there?" She shook her head. "If you want I can take x-rays, but I don't think you have any cavities. I suggest you come back in six months, or earlier if you have any problems."

I suppose this could have happened anywhere. But it happened here in Mexico City.

Time tunnel

One of my favorite places to eat fish and seafood is Boca del Rio, at Ribera de San Cosme #42, a stone's throw from Metro San Cosme. It's been around since 1941, although not at this location. You can read a little about its history on its website.


What I most like about it is that it's one of Mexico City's many time tunnels. It still feels like it's 1959 in there, with vinyl-topped tables, leatherette furniture and waitresses who are emphatic about their use of hair spray. The portraits in the lower left corner of the photo are of the original owners.


The coctél de callo de hacha (scallop cocktail) is also a big draw for me.


I almost always order the mojarra a la diabla, which is a whole fried perch in a chipotle sauce.

Show time

From the 1940s through the 1960s, it was considered the classiest night club in Mexico City. Chilangos of a certain age still have pictures of their parents taken at El Patio, snapped by a strolling photographer, amid the white tablecloths, waiters in tuxedos and bottles of sparkling wine chilling in ice buckets. Not only did Mexico's most famous performers play here, but when the peso was relatively strong, so did international performers like Edith Piaf, Josephine Baker and Charles Aznavour. It has been closed for the last twenty years or so, perhaps waiting for some enterpreneur to come along to tear it down and build a condominium. As it is around the corner from the Ministry of the Interior, some might think of it as a nicer place to visit than to live.

Spoiled brats

No doubt that if any animal rights people read this they will want to shoot me. But does anyone else find it distasteful that, in a country where so many people can barely feed themselves, and so many others have malnutrition problems, there is a stand in the Parque México in Colonia Condesa where you can "spoil your pet" with gourmet treats? They cost 20 pesos per morsel -- some Mexican families' entire food budget for a day. All are made with rice, and are filled with chicken, beef, or veggies, and sprayed with an orange sauce.

From the other side of the ocean

The presenters of Top Gear, a lauded and well-received BBC TV show about cars, recently weighed in on Mexico. According to the program's three caustic commentators, you wouldn't want to buy a Mexican sports car because it would be "lazy, feckless, flatulent, overweight, leaning against a fence asleep looking at a cactus with a blanket with a hole in the middle as a coat."  Here's the BBC itself reporting on the incident, about which the Mexican ambassador to England demanded an apology.

For those of you who read Spanish, here's a slightly more detailed version from Yahoo.


Some of my Mexican readers seem to think that remarks like these are all in good fun -- when the joke's on someone else. When I posted about the Mexican use of the word "negrito," for example, quite a few Mexicans commented. They tended to think I was a clueless gringo affected by the U.S. disease of political correction, unable to appreciate the cultural nuances. What do you think about the remarks of our hermanos from England? As the queen might be saying in this picture, "Cheers my dears, and down the hatch."