It is more expensive than the typical comida corrida, but it is also more elegant, healthier and has fresher ingredients. At the corner of Sinaloa and Medellín, a restaurant called Artisans et Boulangers is a great place for a quiet lunch in the colonia Roma Norte. The chef is Japanese, and much of the food, although Western, is at least inflected by her home. They start you off with fresh bread, subtly flavored water (it was chamomile that day) and a homemade olive spread.First course the other day: salmon tartare. Followed by poached extraviado (a fish similar to grouper), served with mashed potatoes and grilled vegetables.

And what they call "angel cake," with homemade whipped cream. All of this, with coffee, cost 179 pesos.