A couple of years ago I had a bite here at Maque, a café on the corner of Ozuluama and Iztaccíhuatl in the Colonia Condesa. I was accompanied by intrepid reporter Témoris Grecko, who enjoyed the afternoon breeze at the sidewalk tables, and the excellent pastries made on the premises. However, he was incensed by the uniforms worn by the waitresses, which he felt were demeaning.

Given the flounce and the lace, I couldn't really argue with him, although I thought he went a bit too far -- if I remember correctly, he thought that they represented colonialism, enslavement, and so forth. I pointed out that the uniforms are far worse in the coffee shops at the chain stores known as Sanborn's, in business since 1928 and currently owned by Carlos Slim. The unfortunate waitresses there have to dress in these getups, as if they were walking piñatas.

At another famous chain of coffee shops, Vips, they used to be even worse: need I say anything more than pink polyester mindresses? However, on a recent visit I saw that they had updated their uniforms. If they are no more fetching than before, they offer those who wear them a modicum more of dignity.