Mexican soul food, part two

April 21st, 2008

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This photo was taken the other night at about three in the morning at a hole-in-the-wall taco stand on calle Bolivar, a street known for its myriad cantinas. Various different meats had been swirling in that deep fat since approximately one in the afternoon. For the uninitiated, they include slabs of suadero (a cut of beef from the lower part of the rib), extensive tubes of longaniza sausage, festively curling tripes and chunks of pork marinated in chile – all sizzling in the same deep grease. After you place your order, the murderous-looking taquero daintily dips the tortillas in the fat before heating them in the center of the grill, chops the corresponding meats with which to fill them, and voila. Before serving, he’ll ask if you want the tacos garnished with “vegetables.” (He’s referring to chopped onion and cilantro.) The traditional accompaniment is a water-based soft drink known as Boing, which comes in various fruit flavors. The one in the photo is mango.

Labels: Mexico City, tacos

  1. 4 Responses to “Mexican soul food, part two”

  2. By Michael Parker Stainback on Apr 22, 2008

    Kudos on the Boing! plug–and thank God it was in the glass bottle. Boing! needs to betalked about more –celebrated more! I think of it as Mexican Orangina–but like many things in Mexico, sweeter, more sentimental and delightfully antiquated. I have terrible, deep anxiety that Boing! will just go away one day.–MP

  3. By julio on Apr 24, 2008

    Blues del inmigrante: mi reino por un boing de mango!

  4. By Strika on Apr 25, 2008

    When I was a kid, Boing came in a sort of triangular tetra-pack. I don’t think they still sell it like that… Anyway I hope Boing will not go away, not only because of the nostalgia factor but because the company is a worker-owned cooperative.

  5. By Judy on Apr 28, 2008

    Am I the only detractor of Boing? It always gave me raspiness in the throat for some reason, so I didn’t like it, even when purchased at the cafeteria at school in those fabulous pyramidal tetrapaks that had a hole for the popote built in. But I have to admit the Boing de guayaba is pretty good
    I’ve yet to try suadero. It frightens me a little.

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