An idea whose time has gone
December 14th, 2009
Groups of wandering minstrels known as estudiantinas go back to the first universities in Spain, in the late 12th century. They were bands of impoverished students who, to survive, would play music in the streets and pass the hat afterwards. You still find them in Mexico City, particularly on weekends, roaming through the restaurants of the centro histórico. They will typically stay in each eatery and play several numbers. As they are groups of six or more musicians, their warbling, strumming and unbearably unstinting cheer invariably drown out the conversation at your table. As such, talk must be suspended until they leave. Call me a grouch, but I never give them money — I don’t want to encourage them. After more than 800 years, I believe it is time to designate the estudiantiana to its rightful place in history, and banish it to the scrap heap.
13 Responses to “An idea whose time has gone”
By Don Cuevas on Dec 15, 2009
I feel the same way about serenades while dining with companions. It’s a distraction. At least the students can play competently and carry a tune.
But I wouldn’t banish the estudiantinas from, for example, the labyrinthine callejones of Guanajuato, where they act as lively Pied Pipers.
When we last stayed there, it turned out that our lodging’s mini-terraza was right above the starting point of the nightly callejoneadas. The misnstrels were a hindrance to sleep, but rather than banish them, we’d choose another hotel next time.
Saludos,
Don Cuevas
By Carmen on Dec 15, 2009
And lose all that music that was written especially for estudiantinas! It’s a musical genre in itself that has survived all these years. If you don’t like them, don’t go to those restaurants or simply wave them off to another table.
By patricia on Dec 15, 2009
Sounds grumpy to me. One of our best memories of Guanajuato was an estudiantinas concert…you would throw that kind of tradition on the trash heap for the sake of a few minutes of lost conversation? Then years from now, people would bemoan the fact that they were gone.
By Nick on Dec 15, 2009
In Spain, where they are called “tunas”and I think, in Mexico in many places, they are still an active part of University life. For example, in San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato, they stroll the streets and squares, never bothering anyone in restaurants.
By El gabacho on Dec 15, 2009
I have to go with Dave on this one for most accounts. I don’t mind the guys that send a “runner” out first to check if you would like a song. But when it’s obvious that you are deep into a conversation and they park themselves there knowingly – well, I suppose that would be a lot like strolling along with a friend and finding THEM at a restaurant and talking as loud and tourist-like as possible during their time, hmmm?
By Nick W. on Dec 15, 2009
Banish to the scrap heap huh. I am always amazed that in the ever more authoritarian times in which we live that there still remain the freedoms that are available.
This reminds me of a more dramatic inconveinience from NYC where there was a man who in the 1980′s came on to a subway with a saxaphone, martian antennea and blasted the most horrible sounds untill we were all horrified. He then said he would stop playing when he got a total of $5 and return to his home planet and take Ronald Reagan with him.
Ultimately it was a better experience than just sitting, looking at peoples shoes would have been.
Is it possible that we are so inundated with advertising and commercial music in stores, restaurants and on hold on the phone, that any initially unwanted music is a plague?
If we really wanted to complain about something being obtrusive couldn’t we think of something more deserving to banish?
By Judy on Dec 15, 2009
The point is that the music is cheesy and tolerable only in extremely small doses, or indeed in Guanajuato.
Readers of David, lighten up.
By hugo on Dec 15, 2009
haha, most people that have suffered through this at cafe de tacuba for example hate them passionately, so yes, go away, stay in the streets where you are meant to sing!
By Judith McKnight on Dec 15, 2009
I love the estudiantinas under the portales in Morelia. I think they’re pretty good and they’re always fun. I always tip musicians, having been one myself. Music lesson and strings are expensive.
By Shirley on Dec 22, 2009
Pleeeeze don’t come to Patzcuaro…and, since I live in New Orleans too, you might want to stay away from there ..there’s more to that place than bars…thank you
By Ana on Jan 14, 2010
I ate at Restaurante Santa Catarina off Francisco Sosa and a group came in wearing 17th century (?) costumes and played, sang, and did comedy. They were wonderful. My Spanish was rusty, but I thought they said they were some genre called tuna that began in Spain. I’d love to know more about them. They played antique instruments. My husband felt like David, but he doesn’t speak Spanish at all.
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