An empanada by any other name
January 25th, 2010
When there was silver to be mined in Mexico, many from the U.K. came to do the job. Some of them stayed. Among their imports — at least to the state of Hidalgo, less than an hour from Mexico City — were Cornish pasties, known here as pastes. Stuffed and baked, these savory pies are a specialty in Hidalgo’s capital, the city of Pachuca.
However, if you are in Mexico City and hanker for a taste, you need not get on a bus to Hidalgo. On Calle Chiapas in the Colonia Roma, a few steps from Calle Medellín, there’s a cafe called Pastes Real del Monte. Its owners are actually from that mining town, which is just outside of Pachuca, and their product is as good as anything you will find in Hidalgo (and better than most of it).
The proprietor, a Mexican who calls himself Charles (you can find him on duty late in the afternoons), is one of those old-fashioned types who wears both a belt and suspenders. He speaks better English than most native speakers. When I asked him why, he told me that as a child in Real del Monte, some of his teachers were from England.
11 Responses to “An empanada by any other name”
By Jorge Pedro on Jan 25, 2010
iré, iré. gracias por la recomendación
By Deb on Jan 25, 2010
The same migration of Cornish miners happened in the city up the hill from me, Grass Valley (http://www.downtowngrassvalley.com/). We still have a shop or two that sell Cornish Pasties. The town also has a “Cornish Christmas” street fair every December. What a small world.
By Don Cuevas on Jan 26, 2010
Coool! I think I have walked by that place, and may even have a long shot photo of it.
Could it be this?
http://www.pbase.com/panos/image/54005663
Too bad, we didn’t stop to try any. A few years back, we sampled some pretty good pastes in the Camionera del Norte bus station. They were actually baking them there.
Saludos,
Don Cuevas
By michael on Jan 26, 2010
David, great as usual. The place and Cornish people who introduced the “pastie” to Mexico also introduced a ball game to Mexico called soccer or football.
By shelora on Jan 26, 2010
Excellent post!!!
By sonoraTim on Jan 27, 2010
Great post. Any post having to do with food is a winner in my book. FYI – im a sucker for empanadas de calabaza.
By Junichiro Watanabe on Jan 28, 2010
Mole pasties are the best. I’ve tried pasties in Penzance, they weren’t as good as the ones I had in Pachuca.
By Strika on Jan 29, 2010
I don’t like “pastes” in general. They are so dry… (except the mole verde one which is great).
By Heroina on Jan 31, 2010
Ya me gustaria estar por ahi para probar esas empanadas….espero conocer muy pronto la ciudad de Mexico
By MV on Feb 2, 2010
Yes Don Cuevas, that’s the place in your photo. Great pastes!