Brunch in Mexico City

June 19th, 2013

In New York I used to be married to a woman who claimed she hated Sunday brunch. She felt it was a gringo anomaly, evidence of pitiable culinary indecisiveness. Since it was neither breakfast nor lunch, she didn’t think it was anything at all, at least not anything worth eating.

It was easy to be supportive of her. I didn’t care one way or another about brunch, and I tend to encourage any strategy that will keep me inside the house all Sunday morning. So I never ate brunch in New York and of course in Mexico City never even thought about it.

Until now. My friend Juliet Lambert, the founder of Spice Catering, has opened a restaurant Sundays only called Spice Everywhere, at a fonda that had been closed on the weekends, at Calle Puebla 301, almost at the corner of Salamanca, Colonia Roma Norte. I went last Sunday and can only use superlatives. Juliet served the creamiest and most lemony eggs Benedict I’ve ever had. Accompanied by perfect hash browns: impeccably greasy, crunchy and salty.

Although I was almost weaned on them in New York I can’t remember the last time I had lox and bagel. Eating the one pictured above was a little like Marcel and the madeleines.

There are even Belgian waffles cooked by an actual Belgian.

There he is, poaching an egg while Juliet makes the hash browns. When he is not assisting her, Olivier Dekeyser is the best pastry chef in the city.

The most awesome thing about Juliet’s Sunday brunch is that you don’t have to get up early for it. She begins serving at 11 am but most of the people who arrive early are deviant gringos. Unlike in New York you can have brunch on Calle Puebla until 6 pm. I think even my ex would be seduced.

Labels: Mexico City

  1. 16 Responses to “Brunch in Mexico City”

  2. By michael g, mclaughlin on Jun 20, 2013

    My mouth is watering.

  3. By Michael Wolf on Jun 20, 2013

    Brunch schmunch. Who cares about that? I just want to know if those bagels were passable. If so, where do they come from?

  4. By Gloria Perez on Jun 20, 2013

    ¡Ahhhhhhhhh! :0 Ahora me saldrá un grano en la boca por no probar esas delicias.. ;/ Gracias David, por la delicia visual ajajaja

  5. By Don Cuevas on Jun 20, 2013

    We’ll be staying on Calle Puebla in a couple of weeks, but it won’t be on Sunday. Folks on Chowhound-Mexico were recently discussing where to find Sunday brunch in Mexico City.

    Saludos,
    Don Cuevas

  6. By Juanca on Jun 20, 2013

    Uf, querido. Ahora tendré que ir a como dé lugar.

  7. By Ethan Nosowsky on Jun 20, 2013

    That looks pretty darn good! I love how they arranged the sausages in a waffle pattern next to the waffles.

  8. By Andrew Paxman on Jun 20, 2013

    I’m in! Brunch on July 28th, David. Mark your calendar!

  9. By milo on Jun 20, 2013

    Lovely piece David- you make Mexico City come off as the most romantic place in the world (though I consider it myself one of the great cities of the world)
    be well -Milo

  10. By Gin on Jun 20, 2013

    I would eat brunch with you any day. : )

  11. By Jürgen on Jun 20, 2013

    Hi David, thanks for the tip! Always looking for new places to try out. I really don’t get the concept of brunch (in Mexico breakfast seems to occupy about the same time slot), but what the hell. If it’s tasty it doesn’t matter if you call it breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner or night cap. :-)

  12. By Judy on Jun 20, 2013

    My objection to brunch is that they make you eat breakfast at lunch time without any serious food options,and who wants to eat French toast at 2pm? Brunch until 6 pm, h

  13. By Lula on Jun 21, 2013

    Don:
    Cafe Zena (San Miguel Chapultepec) siempre es una gran opción para el domingo.

  14. By Dominique on Jun 21, 2013

    I hesitate to admit that I have always loved having brunch in NYC, eggs benedict (done well)being a favorite. But I would say that my cut-off time for having brunch is 2-3PM. After that, it becomes positively gauche. :)

  15. By Bob Broughton on Jun 22, 2013

    I love eggs benedict. Do they have blintzes?

    And is there a place in Mexico City where you can get a passable pastrami on rye? And bagels “para llevar”?

  16. By Barry Carr on Jun 30, 2013

    Mouthwatering piece, David. Ya me está entrando una hambre terrible. As I won’t be back in the DF until October I hope Spice Everywhere will still be open then. But I do share Michael Wolf’s interest in knowing where those bagels come from. A lousy bagel can really spoil everything. (written from New York)

  17. By Troy on Sep 1, 2014

    Bagels are available from a few retail restaurants, like Karma Bagels. Google will turn them up in the first page of results. Superama in Condesa also carries multiple types in bags and they’re pretty darn good.

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