In New York I used to be married to a woman who claimed she hated Sunday brunch. She felt it was a gringo anomaly, evidence of pitiable culinary indecisiveness. Since it was neither breakfast nor lunch, she didn’t think it was anything at all, at least not anything worth eating.
It was easy to be supportive of her. I didn’t care one way or another about brunch, and I tend to encourage any strategy that will keep me inside the house all Sunday morning. So I never ate brunch in New York and of course in Mexico City never even thought about it.
Until now. My friend Juliet Lambert, the founder of Spice Catering, has opened a restaurant Sundays only called Spice Everywhere, at a fonda that had been closed on the weekends, at Calle Puebla 301, almost at the corner of Salamanca, Colonia Roma Norte. I went last Sunday and can only use superlatives. Juliet served the creamiest and most lemony eggs Benedict I’ve ever had. Accompanied by perfect hash browns: impeccably greasy, crunchy and salty.
Although I was almost weaned on them in New York I can’t remember the last time I had lox and bagel. Eating the one pictured above was a little like Marcel and the madeleines.
There are even Belgian waffles cooked by an actual Belgian.
There he is, poaching an egg while Juliet makes the hash browns. When he is not assisting her, Olivier Dekeyser is the best pastry chef in the city.
The most awesome thing about Juliet’s Sunday brunch is that you don’t have to get up early for it. She begins serving at 11 am but most of the people who arrive early are deviant gringos. Unlike in New York you can have brunch on Calle Puebla until 6 pm. I think even my ex would be seduced.